How to find your dream suit

MISSION POSSIBLE

Shopping for a suit is right up there with buying a car. The right one will afford you oodles of confidence, last for years and, most importantly, ensure you look razor sharp at every given opportunity. But, like any important purchasing decision/secret mission, you can’t go into it cold.

Do a little research and you’ll be sure to reap the rewards…

Before you start…

Match purchase to purpose
It might seem blindingly obvious but the most important place to start is at the beginning: by figuring out exactly what you need your suit for.

Work
If you’re looking for a work suit to wear several times a week, opt for a dark, classic colour over something lighter which will show the grime.

Occasional wear
For something you’ll only wear occasionally (weddings, funerals etc) a black, navy or grey option is preferable.

Job interviews
For job interviews, consider the impression you want to make. Too flashy and you risk over-shadowing your interviewer (never a smart idea), too flamboyant and that conservative company might decide you’re not the finance manager they had in mind.

Know your size

Arguably the most important part of buying a suit is finding one that fits like a glove. To ensure this happens, consider these 5 simple fit tips:

1. Shoulders
Suit shoulders should hug your own and look neat. If your arm protudes beyond your shoulder, it's too big and if you lean against a wall and the suit pad touches the wall before your arm, it’s too big.

2. Chest
Your jacket should button easily without straining (too tight) or gaping (too big). Once it’s buttoned, place your fist between you and the jacket – any wider than your fist and it’s too big.

3. Length:
Hang your arms straight and cup the jacket hem in your hands. If you can’t reach, it’s too long. If it’s shorter, then it’s a matter of personal taste as many modern suit jackets only sit an inch or two below the cuff.

4. Sleeve length:
Sleeve lengths are easily altered, so if the rest of the jacket fits like a glove but the sleeves are too long, it can be remedied. Ask your tailor to have the sleeves altered so you have a quarter of an inch of your shirt sleeve showing.

5. Trousers:
The rise of the trousers (ie. where they sit on your waist) should suit your taste and style. And the legs should look flattering, being neither too tight nor too loose. If you find the trouser waist or length an inch or two out, a tailor can easily alter them.

Consider the details…

Buttons
The number of buttons on your suit jacket will determine a great deal about the fit and the cut. Make sure you know the ins and outs of each style...

Three button suit. This suit is fashionable at the moment, so a good option to try. It also particularly flatters men of a medium or tall build. Tip: Never fasten the last button; instead button up the top two – or just the middle button.

Two button suit. These complement all body shapes, particularly men with shorter torsos and are the most classic of all the buttoned varieties. Tip: Only fasten the top button of your two button jacket

One button suit. These are the most modern suits and look slick on slighter frames. Tip: When you’re standing up the button should always be done up, yet the reverse is true when you’re seated.

Double breasted. These are back on trend and have the advantage of suiting all shapes.

Vents
Most suits have a vent but the type of vent you choose is down to personal taste. Opt for a traditional centre vent or side vents which are more European.

Lapels
There are two main types of lapel, the notch lapel which is the standard shape seen on most business suits – and the peak lapel which is elegant and makes something of a statement.

Fabric
The time of year you want to wear your suit will greatly affect the fabric you go for…

Wool suits are the most common and can be worn all year round. The finest wool is worsted wool, with a high thread count or ‘super’ as it’s known in tailoring. The finest ‘supers’ are 450 but these are extremely fine and therefore delicate, so opt for a number in the low hundreds if you want to find a suit that lasts.

Cotton suits are great in the summer, as the breathable fabric keeps you cool.

Linen suits are also brilliant for summer, as they’re lightweight and breathable. The only drawback is that they crease easily, so are not ideal to travel with.

Lining
Today’s suits are made with such a multitude of eye-catching shades, funky patterns and striking stripes, that slipping off your suit can be a statement in itself. There are no rules regarding the lining – just choose your favourite!

And finally…

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